Dwarf Azaleas

Dwarf and Medium Height Shrubs For the Rock Garden Background

Executive Summary about Dwarf Azaleas by Kyle Y Widner

Dwarf Azaleas
Here is a wide list to select from-the problem is not so much what to take as what not to use.

Azaleas: Any of the hardy deciduous azaleas are available, but it is easy to overdo them. In most types of landscaping, azaleas and rhododendrons should be used in masses; in rock gardening a single plant often better answers the purpose.

Forsythia: Most varieties rather large and coarse. Suspensa litboldi is the lowest growing and most graceful.
Goldflower (Hypericum moserianum) : Good for yellow flowers in midsummer; variety Buckleyi is more dwarf and spreading.

Rhododendrons: Almost too large and too heavy even for the background, excepting in rock gardens of large size. The Myrtle rhododendron (myrtifolium), Wilson rhododendron, thriving in sun or shade (both of which are hybrids of r. minus) and ovatum, are dwarf alpine forms.

Roses: Several of the taller-growing species, not mentioned in the preceding list, such as Hugonis and the Redleaf Rose (r. rubifolia) with its small starry blossoms, carry the spirit of the rock garden.




Care For the Azalea Bonsai Tree

Executive Summary about Dwarf Azaleas by Bob Flukes

Training a Satsuki azalea bonsai tree is most interesting. The forms into which they are trained vary according to one's taste and the nature and shape of the plants used. 

The best times to practice training are just before or just after flowering or from mid-September to October. If training is done in the earlier season, the branches will be fixed and the plants can be released from the copper wire coils in the autumn.

It is better to start the training while the azaleas are young, say 3 to 4 years from cuttings, or an inch or so in diameter at the trunk. The copper wire should never be coiled around the trunk and branches too tightly, as it may damage or even kill them.  As a precaution the trunk and branches may be covered with hemp fiber before training with the copper wire. 

A Satsuki azalea bonsai tree should be trimmed just after flowering, as the new growth breaks the harmony of form or becomes too dense, or shoots that are too strong are produced. 

To really appreciate the styles and forms of the shrubs, one must have aged and well trained plants, and so the Satsuki azalea bonsai tree has not become every man's hobby. 


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Bougainvillea Miami

The Beautiful Miami Pink Bougainvillea

Article about Bougainvillea Miami by A. Ibu

Miami Pink Bougainvillea
Imagine your garden with a bunch of beautiful flowers, and with an explosive color, eye-catching vibrance.  Then you should consider bougainvillea ‘Miami Pink’, a vigorous grower with brilliant deep hot pink blooms providing color to your garden.

Miami Pink bougainvillea blooms on summer season, and in some area it flowers most heavily from October through June.  If dry conditions exist, the flowers bloom sporadically.  The color of the leaves are mid to dark green and ovate.  Growing fast with amazing branching habit gives this variety of color during blooming season.

Mature plant stems reach 20 to 30 ft long, which can be pruned periodically to maintain smaller.  This vine type of plant requires support, so it can be suited for applications such as trellis, arbor, standard, hanging basket, or grown as a bush.

During the first growing season you need to follow a regular watering schedule to encourage a deep root system.  Once the root established, it needs only occasional watering.  

Pinching or removing the growing tips of young plants stems will encourage new growth after each blooming cycle.  This will yield a more colorful bougainvillea.  This flower can be used as annual color in colder climates, but performs best in hardiness zones, as it needs full, direct sun with minimum 5 hours a day.

Becareful not to damage the bougainvillea’s root in removing plant from container.  Bougainvillea has a delicate root system which can be easily severed if you pull on the stem of the plant.  It is recommended to plant bougainvillea Miami Pink in their nursery pots with the bottom of the pot cut out.  A quick-drain soil also can be used for your bougainvillea. 


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Transplanting Peonies

Should I Use Loam With Manure When Transplanting Peonies?

Executive Summary about Transplanting Peonies by Kent Higgins

Transplanting Peony
Digging and dividing an old Peony clump properly is an art and something to be learned by practice. Do not wash the soil from the roots for that makes it more brittle.  

When the divisions are ready to plant, dig a hole much larger than the root.  Plant the root with the buds up it has been done the other way, but without much success. The rule is two inches of soil over the crown of the plant. 

Fill around the root with good rich heavy loam (without manure) and with layer of sand over the top to sift in the holes made by the stems swaying in the spring winds. Mulch the first winter and watch to see that the soil does not wash off and leave the crown exposed. 

Mose people want first, those varieties of Peonies that can usually be counted on to bloom on Memorial Day but do not limit yourself to that one season of bloom for an early or late spring might cause your Peonies to miss the day entirely, With a careful selection from the hundreds of varieties, one can have from 3 to 4 weeks of bloom.



Divide and Transplant - Perennials Love Fall Planting

Executive Summary about Transplanting Peonies by Paul Wonning

Autumn is approaching and the perennial flower garden is looking kind of bedraggled.  Fall is the best time to transplant and divide the plants, as the cooler temperatures put less stress on the plants. 

Plants moved in the spring are trying to put out new root growth at the same time they are trying to produce leaves and maybe flowers. This puts a lot of stress on the plant, and many simply succumb. By doing the planting in the autumn, it removes this stress. 

The root system is established in the fall before the frigid winter temperatures come. During mild spells in the winter when the ground thaws, the perennials will continue root growth and when spring finally comes the plant can emerge with fresh vigor, ready to grow and bloom. 

Veronica, Coneflower, Coreopsis, Lychnis and Salvia are some plants which need to be transplanted fairly frequently to keep them strong. Indeed, some of these may die out after two or three years if not divided and transplanted at least every other year.

Other perennials rarely need transplanting. Peonies, daylilies, heuchera, geranium and astilbe belong in this group. But even these need it occasionally. 


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